Content:

1. A general introduction about fjords

2. Background: fjord research

3. A short description of the main fjord regions

3a. The Chilean fjord region

3b. New Zealand's Fiordland

3c. North American fjords in British Columbia and Alaska

3d. Fjords of the North Atlantic: Norway, Scottia, Greenland, Iceland, Spitsbergen

 

1. A general introduction about fjords

   Fjord regions are comparably young forms of marine coast that are located in higher latitudes (> 42°) where large masses of ice covered the land during the last glaciation period. They have mainly been shaped by the erosive processes of moving glaciers and later by raging torrents that run down from coastal mountain ranges. A fjord is a sea water filled former glacier valley. Some fjords still have a glacier at their head calving into the sea but in most fjords only the typical U-shape and the smooth rock walls that often exhibit vertical scratches from moving ice remind of the glacial origin. Fjords are often considerably deeper than adjoining marine areas. The depth record is hold by the Sogn Fjord in Norway with 1308 m. The deepest point ("over-deepening") generally lies close to the fjord mouth and may be followed by a very shallow sill which represents the end moraine from the former glacier. Sills are often responsible for bottle necks at the entrance that reduce water exchange.

   Steep slopes and often very high precipitation make fjord regions geomorphologically very dynamic areas where terrestrial and submarine landslides are a frequent and natural factor of erosion. The terrestrial vegetation history is young as is the marine life. Less than 10.000 years ago the organisms re-conquered the habitats that have been released by the retreating ice and close to recent glaciers the recolonization processes can still be observed. While the origin of the terrestrial life forms is known to a large extend, it is still unclear where the marine benthic organisms that now inhabit the fjords hided during glaciation. Due to close vicinity of a large number of different habitats, a very complex interference system of strong gradients, intense terrestrial-marine coupling, very dynamic biological processes and exceptional high marine biodiversity fjord regions are of special ecological and economical importance and are perfect research areas for addressing specific as well as fundamental questions.

 

 

2. Background: fjord research

   Considering the coastline covered by fjordlands and the ecological and economical importance this type of coast represents, fjord research is dramatically under-represented in marine science. This has logistic, technical-historical, political and in some cases even cultural reasons. The morphology of fjordlands and the climatic situation were generally unfavourable for development and, with some exceptions in the North Atlantic, Universities are hardly found close to fjords. Access still depends to a large extend on boat traffic, distances are large and the weather conditions are often harsh. At the end of 19th and the beginning of the 20th century when marine research had an important boom, sampling was done either in the intertidal or from boats. The steep intertidal in fjords often characterized by smooth rock is hard to access and due to the frequent presence of a low salinity layer often exhibits a comparably poor intertidal life which seems not to reward for the long boat trips to access it. The traditional gear on boats, grab samplers and dredge nets do not work very well on hard substratum and where soft sediment is found in fjords it is often comparably poor in species. As a consequence fjord regions have been of lower interest for the developing marine science community and marine stations have been built in regions that seemed to be more favourable. As a result, marine science has evolved largely excluding fjord regions. With the development of new techniques marine environments that have been out of reach for a long time could be explored. But deep sea environments and polar regions seemed far more exciting than closer coastal environments - fjord regions dropped out of the search pattern again. With growing economic interest in fjord regions through fisheries, logging, aquaculture and tourism, the demand for scientific data is rising and the lack of biological knowledge of these environments becomes obvious. Techniques like SCUBA diving and remote operating vehicles (ROV) allow exploring the subtidal rocky slopes and reveal astonishing diverse and unique ecosystems. Fjord regions seem to be high latitude biodiversity hot spots and offer the possibility to address biological questions of global importance. But the comparably low number of researchers in the different fjord regions often still work very isolated and the topics are very locally restricted.

 

 

3. A short descriptions of the main fjord regions


3a. The Chilean Fjord region


         

   The Chilean fjord region extends from 42 S to 56 S (Cape Hoorn) along 1500 km of straight measured coastline. Characterized by fjords which are salt water filled valleys of the Andes and numerous islands and channels that are structures of a second, coastal mountain range the Chilean or Patagonian fjord region is one of the most structured coastal areas in the world. The northernmost of its fjords, the Estero de Reloncavi represents the most equator ward fjord. Canal Missier with 1270 m depth is the second deepest fjord structure in the world. Two large ice fields that feed numerous glaciers are located in the centre of this fjord region. San Rafael glacier is one of them and the closest glacier to the equator that still calves into the sea. Average annual precipitation can locally reach up to 8000 mm with a rain maximum in winter and belongs to the highest in world for these latitudes. This high precipitation gives rise to a large number of small and medium sized, often raging creeks and rivers, some of them ephemeral. The run off that carries a lot of sediment and organic matter into the fjord is also responsible for the presence of a Low Salinity Layer of varying thickness. The lush terrestrial vegetation is characterized by extra tropical (temperate) rain forest, dominated by Nothophagus species. Despite these superlatives and interesting facts the Chilean fjord region is characterized by another superlative – it is one of the least studied coastal regions in the world. Many people do not even recognize that there is a great fjord region in Patagonia. The marine life, especially the benthic ecosystems are still unknown to a large extend. While the Straits of Magellan is comparably well studied, for the northern fjord region only fragmentary information is scattered over the primary literature and for the part south of the Peninsula Taitao only a negligible number of data is available. In the entire region there is only one scientific station in a fjord (Huinay Scientific Field station which has been built 3 years ago).

          

   Nevertheless especially some recent studies reveal an interesting marine life. Similar to New Zealand Fjords the shallow water benthic communities are mainly composed of sessile suspension feeders. But with the exception of high abundance of brachiopods the composition of these communities differs significantly from what is known from New Zealand, even on higher taxonomic levels. Due to the influence of low salinity water the intertidal and upper subtidal shows clear stratification and is comparably poor in species (though rich in biomass), dominated by barnacles, extended mussels beds (Mytilus chilensis, Aulacomya atra) and sessile gastropods (Crepidula sp.) Although no quantitative data are available yet the current studies indicate very high overall species diversities in the subtidal communities below the influence of the Low Salinity Layer where the distribution is mainly patchy. The high diversity is often accompanied by high biomass – an elsewhere rarely observed combination. Eurybathy, the presence of deep water organisms in shallow water, is a very abundant phenomenon but many of the explanations given for this phenomenon in other regions do not fit for the Chilean fjords. Most spectacular and eye-catching representatives of this phenomenon are the only recently discovered large banks of deep water corals that can regularly be found in depths as shallow as 20 m, far above the end of the euphotic zone. They are mainly built up by the solitary or pseudo ramified Desmophyllum dianthus and two minor species Caryophyllia sp. and Tethocyathus sp. Although there are some differences in structure and ecology these coral banks are comparably to the Lophelia reefs in Norwegian fjords, at least in extension. Very special bacteria communities can be found close to underwater thermal springs that are manifestations of the volcanic activity in this region.

   Marine mammals, the top predators in the fjords, are quite abundant: in the northern fjords mainly two species of dolphins can be observed, the Peale's dolphin Lagenorhynchus australis and the Chilean dolphin Cephalorhynchus eutropia (picture). They can often be seen in the mounds of rivers while feeding. Bottlenose dolphins and orcas can also be spotted occasionally. Sea lions (Otaria flavescens) form large colonies on the rocks, in which rarely single elephant seals have been observed. The relationship between sea lions and fishermen as well as salmon farms is still very complicated and worth of improvement. The sea and river otters huillin (Lontra provocax) and chungungo (Lutra felina) and the introduced North American mink Mustela vison, which is a problem for the avifauna, are other small mammals that inhabit the fjords. For more information about marine mammals in the Chilean fjords, contact Centro Ballena Azul or Yaqupacha.

   The summary of the first workshop on Chilean fjords at the Huinay Scientific Field Station (March 2004) can be downloaded her in English, Spanish or German.

   The summary of the workshop on research proirities for coastal management in the Southern channels and fjords (October 2003) can be downloaded here (Spanish).

 

 


3b. New Zealand's Fiordland 

(text and two pictures from the Fiordland research page of the University of Otago)


                            

   Doubtful Sound harbours a unique marine ecosystem, low in macrophyte abundance and dominated by sessile suspension and filter feeders. A distinctive feature of the fiord is the abundance of a number species that are typically rare or absent in shallow coastal waters. These include the black coral (Antipathes fiordensis), red coral (Erina novaezelandia), snake stars (Astrobrachion constrictum), and brachiopods (eg. Liotherella novaezelandia). These distributions are often attributed to the low light levels, low primary productivity and low sedimentation rates, relatively slow water currents, and the extremely narrow continental shelf adjacent to Fiordland.

                           

   The geomorphology and hydrography of Doubtful Sound have a significant influence on the distribution and abundance of organisms within the fiord. The thinning of the low salinity layer (LSL) with distance along the fiord results in strong horizontal gradients in primary productivity and diversity . Recruitment processes and larval transport processes are also strongly influence by the hydrographic processes within the fiord. The LSL also dictates that many of the intertidal and shallow subtidal organisms are euryhaline (eg. Ulva lactuca, Patiriella regularis). In addition, the layer controls the vertical distribution and zonation patterns or marine organisms within the fiord, both directly and indirectly. This is especially true for key species such as the predatory starfish and the grazing sea urchins.

   At the top of Fiordland's food web are bottlenose dolphins. A resident group in Doubtful Sound has been the subject of a decade of study - chiefly focussed on how the dolphins use the habitat, and quantifying social relationships. These studies now extent to the other fiords, and to detailed studies of acoustic behaviour and impact of dolphin watching.

 

 


3c. North American fjords in British Columbia and Alaska


                  

Who can make a general description???

   Especially interesting features: large banks of hexactinellid sponges (in the picture the cloud sponge Aphrocallistes vastus) which normally occur in much deeper waters can be found between (5) 15 and 35 m. Hexactinellid sponges in shallow water are also known from the Antarctic, from a Mediterranean cave and a New Zealand fjord. For more information about the sponges gardens, click here. Another interesting species is the giant octopus (Octopus dofleini).

                         

 

 

3d. Fjords of the North Atlantic: Norway, Scottia, Greenland, Iceland, Spitsbergen

              

Who can make a general description???

   

 

   Especially interesting features: these fjords are also inhabited by some species that are generally known from deeper waters such as the ratfish Chimaera montrosa (picture), the sea tree Paragorgia arborea and the deep-water coral Lophelia pertusa (picture). Lophelia reefs can be found in all oceans except the polar regions, generally in depth between 200 and 1000 m with water temperatures between 4 and 13°C. The shallowest record of a living Lophelia reef is 39 m in Trondheimfjord. For more information on Lophelia reefs, click here.

 

 

 

   Impressions of the Norwegian fjords (kindly made available by Erling Svenson)